Category: fish-diseases

Velvet (Oödinium)

About Velvet/Oödinium

Names: Rust, Gold Dust Disease, Oödinium, Velvet
Disease Type: Parasitic skin flagellate
Cause/Organism: Oödinium pilularis

Description

Velvet is one of the more common diseases in aquarium fish and can quickly strike down every inhabitant in the tank before the owner realizes what he or she is dealing with. Also known as Rust or Gold Dust disease, it is caused by one of several species of a tiny parasite known as Oödinium.

Oödinium is a dinoflagellate, a creature classified by some as a protozoan and by others as algae because it contains chlorophyll. Oödinium can occur in both fresh and saltwater fish.

In freshwater fish, Velvet is caused by either Oödinium pilularis or Oödinium limneticum. In marine fish, the species is Oödinium ocellatum and causes Coral Fish Disease. All three species have symptoms and lifecycles similar to the well-known parasite, Ich.

The single-celled parasite’s life cycle can be divided into three major phases. First, as a tomont, the parasite rests at the water’s floor and divides into as many as 256 tomites. Second, these juvenile, motile tomites swim about in search of a fish host, meanwhile using photosynthesis to grow and fuel their search. Finally, the adolescent tomite finds and enters the slime coat of a host fish, dissolving and consuming the host’s cells and needing only three days to reach full maturity before detaching to become a tomont once more. They must find another host within 24 hours or die.

Oödinium produces whitish/yellow pustules on the fish that are much finer than the spots seen in Ich. In fact, they are so fine they are often not seen before the fish perishes.

Like Ich, Oödinium is present in most aquariums but only becomes a problem when the fish are stressed by poor quality water, changes in the water temperature or being transported.

Symptoms

  • Scratching against hard objects
  • Lethargy
  • Loss of appetite and weight
  • Loss of color
  • Rapid, labored breathing
  • Fins clamped against the body
  • Fine yellow or rusty colored film on the skin
  • In advanced stages, skin peels off

Initially, the fish rub against hard objects trying to dislodge the parasites. As the disease progresses, the fish becomes lethargic, fins are held close to the body, appetite is reduced and the fish loses weight. A key symptom is difficulty breathing, resulting in rapid gilling.

Perhaps the most telltale symptom is the appearance of a velvety film on the skin that resembles gold- or rust-colored dust. The film may be difficult to see but can be more easily detected by directing a beam of a flashlight on the fish in a darkened room. The parasite is most often seen on the fins and gills.

Velvet attacks all fish and will even affect fry that are only a few days old. Anabantoids, Danios, Goldfish, Zebras and Killifish are particularly susceptible to Velvet disease.

Treatment

  • Raise water temperature
  • Dim lights for several days
  • Add aquarium salt
  • Treat with Fritz Coppersafe® for ten days
  • Discontinue carbon filtration during treatment

Because Velvet is highly contagious and usually far advanced before being diagnosed, it is important to take steps to treat it as soon as possible.

Treatment is targeted at the free-swimming stage of the parasite.

Sodium chloride is believed to mitigate the reproduction of Velvet; however, this treatment is not itself sufficient for the complete eradication of an outbreak. Treatments added directly to the fish’s environment such as Fritz Coppersafe® are often needed.

Additionally, because Velvet parasites derive a portion of their energy from photosynthesis, leaving a tank in total darkness for seven days provides a helpful supplement to chemical treatments. Finally, some enthusiasts recommend raising the water temperature of an infected fish’s environment to 82°F in order to quicken the life cycle (and subsequent death) of Velvet parasites; however, this tactic is not practical for all fish and may induce stress in some species.

Fritz Coppersafe® is the treatment of choice. It should be used according to the recommended dosage for a full ten days to ensure that the parasite is completely eradicated.

As with any treatment, activated carbon should be removed from the filter as it will remove the drugs from the water.

Prevention

  • Maintain high water quality
  • Provide fish with a nutritionally balanced diet
  • Add ParaShield whenever adding new fish to the aquarium to prevent fungal outbreaks.

Fungus is easily prevented. Avoid injuries to your fish by minimizing handling and not mixing specimens that might damage one another. Water quality should be monitored carefully and kept high by performing regular maintenance and water changes. The cleaner the aquarium, the less problematic fungus is likely to be.

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Fungal Infection

About Fungal Infection

Names: Fungus, Fish Fungus
Disease Type: True fungal infection
Cause/Organism: Saprolegnia and Achlya mold species

Description

A fungal infection usually starts as growth on decaying matter in the aquarium. It attacks fish with a poor slime coat or eggs that have died after being laid. It will also attack lesions left by other injuries. Fish who develop fungus are already in a vulnerable state, the result of other serious health problems or attacks such as parasites, a physical injury or a bacterial infection. Poor water conditions and drastic temperature changes can also play a part in this disease.

Symptoms

White, brown or gray cotton-like growths on the scales, skin or fins of freshwater or brackish water fish.

Treatment

  • Quarantine the aquarium.
  • Add aquarium salt, 1 tablespoon per 5 gallons
  • Remove activated carbon
  • Treat with Fritz Maracyn® Oxy for up to five days, following label instructions

Fritz Maracyn® Oxy is the treatment of choice. It should be used according to the recommended dosage. Fritz Parashield is an herbal alternative that contains natural oils and extracts that have been proven effective against fungal and bacterial infections.

As with any treatment, activated carbon should be removed from the filter as it will remove the drugs from the water.

Please note that many bacterial infections are misdiagnosed as fungal, so if unsure, it is recommended to treat for both types of infection.

Prevention

  • Maintain high water quality
  • Provide fish with a nutritionally balanced diet
  • Add ParaShield whenever adding new fish to the aquarium to prevent fungal outbreaks.

Fungus is easily prevented. Avoid injuries to your fish by minimizing handling and not mixing specimens that might damage one another. Water quality should be monitored carefully and kept high by performing regular maintenance and water changes. The cleaner the aquarium, the less problematic fungus is likely to be.

Freshwater Ich

About Freshwater Ich

Names: White Spot Disease, Ick
Disease Type: Parasitic Protozoan/Ectoparasite
Cause/Organism: Ichthyophthirius multifiliis

Description

Ichthyophthirius multifiliis (commonly known as freshwater white spot disease, freshwater Ich or freshwater ick) is a common disease of freshwater fish. It is caused by the protozoan Ichthyopthirius. Ich is one of the most common and persistent diseases in fish. The protozoan is an ectoparasite. White nodules that look like white grains of salt or sugar of up to 1 mm appear on the body, fins and gills. Each white spot is an encysted parasite. It is easily introduced into a fish pond or home aquarium by new fish or equipment which has been moved from one fish-holding unit to another. Once the organism gets into a large fish culture facility, it is difficult to control due to its fast reproductive cycle and its unique life stages. If not controlled, there is a 100% mortality rate of fish. With careful treatment, the disease can be controlled, but the cost is high in terms of lost fish, labor and cost of chemicals.

Whitespot is very damaging to the gills and skin. In heavily infected fish, it can cause a rapid deterioration of condition, considerable distress and death. Infected fish have small white spots on the skin and gills and produce excess mucus due to irritation. Whitespot causes most damage when entering and leaving the tissues of the fish. This can lead to the loss of skin and ulcers. These wounds can harm the ability of a fish to control the movement of water into its body. Damage caused to the gill tissue of an infected fish can also reduce respiratory efficiency. This means it is more difficult for the fish to obtain oxygen from the water, and the fish becomes less tolerant to low levels of dissolved oxygen.

Symptoms

  • Small white spots resembling sand
  • Rapid breathing
  • Redness or bloody streaks and lethargy in advanced stages
  • Fish scratch against rocks and gravel
  • Hiding abnormally
  • Not schooling (in schooling fish)
  • Flashing
  • Rubbing and scratching against objects
  • Upside-down swimming near the surface
  • Anorexia (loss of appetite, refusing all food) with consequential wasting

Initially, the fish rub against hard objects trying to dislodge the parasites. As the disease progresses, the fish becomes lethargic, fins are held close to the body, appetite is reduced and the fish loses weight. A key symptom is difficulty breathing, resulting in rapid gilling.

Prevention

  • Quarantine new fish
  • Maintain high water quality
  • Provide fish with a nutritionally balanced diet
  • Keep a therapeutic level of copper in your tank using Mardel Coppersafe®
  • Use a UV sterilizer

The best way to avoid Ich is to quarantine all new fish in a separate tank for two weeks before moving them to the regular tank. When quarantine is not possible, a prophylactic treatment (such as Mardel Coppersafe®FritzPro Methylene Blue or Malachite Green) given when new fish are introduced and again four days later will help reduce the incidence of infection. New plants should also be treated as they can carry Ich cysts.

Maintaining high water quality, avoiding temperature fluctuations and providing a robust diet is the best preventative for Ich and other diseases.

Fin and Tail Rot

About Fin and Tail Rot

Names: Fin and Tail Rot
Disease Type: Gram-negative bacterial infection
Cause/Organism: Pathogens including Flexibacter columnaris, Nocardia, Mycobacterium and Pseudomonas species

Description

Fin and Tail Rot is one of the most common and most preventable diseases of aquarium fish. Fin and Tail Rot is caused by several types of gram-negative bacteria and often occurs simultaneously with other diseases. Fin and Tail Rot can be difficult to cure, especially in the more advanced stages. If left untreated, it will eventually kill the diseased fish and infect all other fish in the aquarium.

Fin and Tail Rot is always environmental in nature and brought on by poor water conditions. Fish stress is also a contributing factor in Fin and Tail Rot. When fish are handled, moved, subjected to overcrowding or housed with more aggressive fish, they are more susceptible to Fin and Tail Rot.

Symptoms

  • Fin edges turn white
  • Fins appear ragged and split
  • Bases of fins inflamed
  • Entire fin may rot away

Treatment

  • Quarantine the aquarium. Do not remove fish or add fish to the problem aquarium.
  • Remove Activated Carbon
  • Treat with Fritz Maracyn® Two, following label instructions.

Fritz Maracyn® Two is the treatment of choice for gram-negative bacterial infections. It should be used according to the recommended dosage. Fritz BacterShield is an herbal alternative that contains natural oils and extracts that have been proven effective against fungal and bacterial infections.

Fritz Maracyn® Two powder is a broad-spectrum antibiotic (minocycline) developed for use in aquariums. Due to its unique properties, it is absorbed by the fish through the skin. During the prescribed treatment, the concentration of minocycline in the fish fluids rises to a therapeutic level and is available to fight systemic infections susceptible to its action. It is primarily effective against gram-negative pathogenic organisms. Internal diseases are more difficult to detect than external ones and early detection is almost impossible.

As with any treatment, activated carbon should be removed from the filter as it will remove the drugs from the water.

Prevention

  • Maintain good water quality
  • Perform regular maintenance
  • Keep proper water parameters
  • Provide fish with a nutritionally balanced diet

Add Fritz Bactershield whenever adding new fish to the aquarium to prevent bacterial infection outbreaks.

Fin and Tail Rot is one of the most preventable diseases in aquarium fish. The root cause of Fin Rot is always poor water conditions, but fish stress is also a contributing factor. When fish are handled, moved, subjected to overcrowding or housed with more aggressive fish, they are more susceptible to Fin and Tail Rot. If left untreated, it will eventually kill the diseased fish and infect all the other fish in the tank as well.

Dropsy

About Dropsy

Names: Bloat, Dropsy
Disease Type: Bacterial or gram-negative
Cause/Organism: Multiple causes, usually stress or environmental

Description

Dropsy is the buildup of fluid inside the body cavity or tissues of a fish. As a symptom rather than a disease, it can indicate a number of underlying diseases, including bacterial infections, parasitic infections or liver dysfunction.

Symptoms

  • Swollen belly
  • Scales stand out
  • Bulging eyes
  • Loss of color/Pale gills
  • Feces pale and stringy
  • Fins clamped against the body
  • Ulcers
  • Loss of appetite

Symptoms vary widely. Some fish present with the classic swollen belly, others display skin lesions, while still others show few symptoms at all. This variability is what makes diagnosis difficult. However, in most cases, a number of symptoms are observed, both physical and behavioral.

These symptoms are the result of the progression of the infection. Internal organs are affected, most notably the liver and kidneys. Anemia occurs, causing the gills to lose their normal red color. As the abdomen fills with fluid organs are pushed aside, sometimes causing the spine to curve. Scales protrude from the body, giving the appearance of a pine cone. This symptom is a classic indication of a severe infection.

Cause

The bacterial agent that causes Dropsy is one of several gram-negative bacteria commonly present in aquarium habitats. The underlying cause of fish becoming infected in the first place is a compromised immune system that leaves the fish susceptible to infection. This can happen as the result of stress from a number of factors, such as the following:

  • Poor water quality
  • Ammonia or nitrite spikes
  • Large drop in water temperature
  • Stress from transportation
  • Improper nutrition
  • Aggressive tankmates
  • Other diseases

Generally, a single or short-term exposure to stress will not compromise the ability of the fish to fight infection. In most cases of lowered immunity, the stress exposure has happened for an extended period of time or several stress factors have occurred in rapid succession.

Treatment

Dropsy is not easily cured. Treatment is geared toward correcting the underlying problem and providing supportive care to the sick fish.

  • Move sick fish to a hospital tank
  • Add salt to the hospital tank, 1 tsp per gallon
  • Feed fresh, high-quality foods
  • Treat with antibiotics

A broad spectrum antibiotic specifically formulated for gram-negative bacteria is recommended, like Mardel Maracyn® 2. Always follow directions for duration and dosage. It is important to move the infected fish to another tank to separate them from the healthy fish. Meanwhile, perform a water change on the original tank and monitor the fish closely for the appearance of symptoms. Salt should be added to the hospital tank at the ratio of one teaspoon per gallon of water. Keep the tank scrupulously clean, and perform weekly partial water changes. Provide a variety of fresh, high-quality food. Often this is enough to resolve the infection in cases that are not advanced. Keep the fish under observation for several weeks after symptoms disappear.

Prevention

Prevention is the best cure. Almost all the factors that stress fish enough to cause them to be susceptible to infection can be prevented. Because poor water quality is the most common root cause of stress, tank maintenance is critical. Other factors to keep in mind include:

  • Perform regular water changes
  • Keep the tank clean
  • Clean the filter regularly
  • Avoid overcrowding the tank
  • Do not overfeed
  • Use flake foods within one month of opening
  • Vary the diet

If the tank is well maintained and the fish fed a healthy diet, outbreaks of Dropsy are unlikely.